It’s always best to make sure you’re downloading a legit and untampered version of your operating system you want to use. Here’s a simple three step guide to download a copy of Windows 11 directly from the Microsoft website.
Step 2) Scroll down till you Download Windows 11 Disk Image (ISO), select your language, it should then simply generate you a download link that lasts for 24 hours.
Now, you could just load that onto a USB and be on your way (using rufus to create a bootable USB drive), but maybe you want to actually verify what you’ve downloaded? Here’s how:
Download IgorWare Hasher, which basically verifies the files SHA-1, MD5 and CRC32 hashes. Using that you compare it to a known list of verified ISO’s. This time Microsoft provides these hashes right after selecting your preferred language.
Oh and for your information, “English International” is the British English version, supposedly.
So you have a .mkv file and want to maybe remove or add subtitles to your video. Back in the way you were out of luck and if you did not have the original files to re-encode again, however now with Matroska it’s a lot simpler. It’s essentially a container.
Using MKVToolNix you can simply open the container, add or remove what you like and then reproduce the container again. No need for codecs, or long rendering times. It’s GUI (graphical utility interface) based, but there are purely command-line methods as well, but I found MKVToolNix to be very simple and gets the job done.
I previously wrote a guide to download Windows 10 directly from Microsoft and also check the hashes to confirm they are original/legit copies of Windows. With Rufus you are able to do pretty much the same step, but quicker so I’ve always been thinking of writing it up. Having issues with legacy and UEFI systems not reading the bootable USB drive, I thought I can combine the two.
There are other guides out there so I think I do not need to go into deep detail, you can always go check them out if you get stuck (links down below), however I simply wanted to point out the key things that may cause issues.
Once you start Rufus rather than selecting an ISO file (windows you’ve already got downloaded) instead use the drop down menu and click “DOWNLOAD” then literally click the “DOWNLOAD” button again so it pops up the menu to download your preferred version. Do this with the latest version of Rufus or make sure to update Rufus using the cog settings at the very bottom of the program.
After that I prefer to download via the link and save the ISO for another time. I then repeat usual process of selecting an ISO and the important parts here are now loading up the Partition scheme as “MBR” pressing ALT+E to ensure the target system is BIOS or UEFI.
I have seen people select the file system as FAT32, but if you do that with the latest windows with file sizes larger than 4gb you will have issues, because I can confirm for example in Windows 11 and also Windows 10 21H1 you will have files larger than 4 GB’s within the installation so stick to NTFS.
Started noticing scratches on some of my music CD’s and thus the question formed as to how I can backup these CD’s up in case of eventual complete failure. Yes I still have CD’s, but weirdly I don’t have a CD player anymore, just an external drive I use now and again.
Method #1 – Windows Media Player
Simply open Windows Media Player, press Alt to get the standard menu to appear and go to Tools > Options. This should bring up the Options window with various tabs of settings to go through. Look for “Rip Music”. Select your preferences, location of where the output files go and you’re done. Press Apply & OK.
After that you should see the option appear just above the track lists.
It might be greyed out due to not selecting any tracks, so after selecting the tracks you want to rip, press “Rip CD” and you’re all done.
Method #2 – Copy the Audio Disk for a 1:1, like for like copy
This method is just after one thing, exact copy of the disk. Using software such as CloneCD or ImgBurn to clone the disk and store that as a backup or clone the disk and store that as a backup, pure and simple. I have yet to fully explore and learn exact details and whether these software are indeed exact copies, however my disks still are fine so I have a bit more time, in the mean time I use the first method above and prefer to hide away the disk.
There are probably more methods I am not thinking of, if I come across any or find better software that I am satisfied with I’ll update this post. Good luck.
This browser extension quite simply generates a list of all of your open tabs in your current window with nicely formatted lines for you to copy paste to note somewhere, email or share.
All of this is in text format so you can just adjust or create the list manually and as you go. Another benefit of this is you could copy paste this to any messaging application and not worry about compatibility.
Also included in the copy paste is the timestamp at the top, useful to know when the list was created.
You may be wondering, ok so I copied the list, it’s large so it’s going to be a pain to reopen, well the restore function is there too. Paste exactly what you copied and the extension will automatically open every page in the list.
You may find this browser extension useful if you much prefer getting a simple, raw list and saving it to say your email or notes. No need to sync or require the extension. It does exactly what is needed without making it dependant.
However some people may prefer to use their mouse and hit a button rather than selecting all (CTRL+A and then CTRL+C) to copy/paste the list. Plus having that text in your list is a bit annoying. I’d ditch that, include that out of the frame and include a button, of course thus having both ways still available.
Finally I would improve the look and add a local save option so one could save the lists in named folders similar to bookmarking. Being able to open them up quickly and edit the list would literally mean I would no longer need other tab saving extensions. You could then make another extended extension of this with sync support, for those who prefer it. I personally would replace my tab bookmarking extensions I have for this.
So you have a video file, such as an mpg/mpeg file. You would like to extract the audio from it without making any changes. Video containers usually hold the video and audio file separately so lossless conversion is possible.
Depending on your video container format, the method would be different, but for mpg/mpeg you can simply download ffmpeg (BtbN/FFmpeg-Builds) and extract it to your C drive (or your preferred location), name the folder ffmpeg and start Command Prompt (see below)
Once you launch Command Prompt, you will need to head to the folder that you created and extracted the downloaded files. Type “cd C:\ffmpeg”. For convenience, move your video file to the same folder and execute the command below.
ffmpeg -i "1.mpeg" -vn -acodec copy "1.wav“
What you’re telling ffmpeg to do is look for the file “1.mpeg” within the folder (rename this to your file name), then extract the audio, creating the file “1.wav” (or you could change it to “1.mp3”). Once done you should see the newly created file in the same folder.
For more advanced people, if you know what you’re doing you can do this without moving any files around.
Like me, you may have a Lead-acid battery that’s lost its charge. You don’t have to throw it away, there is still hope!
In my case the battery was left in storage, without charge for some periods of time. My assumption was that it had also lost some of its water. In some cases you can revive it by charging it up at a slightly higher voltage, but if it is lacking sulfuric acid or water (De-ionised), charging it dry may just do further damage.
It’s very odd that Android does not have this simple feature installed on its OS. Nevertheless we can still do it ourselves until they come around by using a simple application someone (Cilenco) has kindly developed.
If you’re not sure, continue reading. It’s not hard, but it’s not as simple as install and go. You’ll first need to do a few things.
Download the application installer here. Once you install it will ask you to run a command line on adb (Android Debug Bridge). Before you can successfully execute the command, you’ll need to enable developer and debugging modes on your device. Your device needs to be connected to your USB for this entire process. You can transfer over the application installer this way anyway.
On your computer, download Android Studio here. You can either download the whole package or simply download the platform-tools to use adb. You’ll only need adb, but I had trouble finding it so I downloaded the entire thing and via the configuration went to SDK Manager > SDK Tools installed the package.
If you managed to install platform-tools one way or another. Press start and type “cmd”, which should auto search for Command Prompt. Run it.
You will need to navigate to the folder, so type “cd <location of platform-tools folder>”. If like me you installed on a different drive, you will need to type “d:” or whatever drive letter your folder is at. Then the cd part above.
Next you’ll want to test the connection to your device. Type:
If you see a device in the list then you’re good to go with executing the final command.
adb shell pm grant com.cilenco.skiptrack android.permission.SET_VOLUME_KEY_LONG_PRESS_LISTENER
Start the application on your phone and you’re done. Follow any necessary permission steps on the app.
If you did not see your device in the list, you’ll need to track back and make sure you’ve enabled developer mode, USB debugging mode and your computer sees your phone. Install USB/device drivers if necessary.