Mini Smart Switch with a DIY box or a simple UK Plug to switch box

If a smart power plug is currently overpriced, using a Mini Smart Switch can be an alternative method, especially if it’s going to be a permanent change. However without any case or box it’s a safety risk. Adding a DIY simple plug power box and a socket might make sense, if you’ve got them spare. Essentially making it an extension lead.

Links & References

Simple Plug in Light and Switch – YouTube

Electrical Wiring Colours – A Complete Guide | RS

Wiring a Mini Smart Switch to control a UK one way lighting circuit

In my case I have one light switch that controls one light bulb. There is 3 bus bars, one 2-slot and the other two 3-slots. The current wiring would basically be like this:

Disclaimer: I am not a qualified electrician. I’m self-taught and this is actually only for my own notes.

Remember, turn off the power anytime you are touching the wiring, I also recommend telling people in the accommodation that you’ll be turning off the power and not to turn it on without informing you.


Live IN (commonly brown wire) to a bus bar (lets label this live bus bar)
Neutral IN (commonly blue wire) to a bus bar (lets label this neutral bus bar)
Ground/Earth (commonly green and yellow striped wire IN to the ground/earth bus bar.

(this is passing the live, neutral & ground to the next room)
Live OUT (commonly brown wire) to the live bus bar
Neutral OUT (commonly blue wire) to the neutral bus bar
Ground/Earth (commonly green and yellow striped wire IN to the ground/earth bus bar.

This means we have 1 slot left on both the live & neutral bus bars

Light Switch

One end connecting to the 2-slot bus bar and the other end connecting to the live bus bar.

Light Bulb

Live (commonly brown wire) (positive end of the light bulb) connects to the 2-slot bus bar (switch).
Neutral (commonly blue wire) (negative end of the light bulb) connects to the neutral bus bar.

Now we should have filled all slots on the 2-slot and both 3-slot bus bars. We’ve basically connected power to the live and neutral bus bars (and the ground/earth connected too).

If unsure which cables are Live and neutral in/out, you should disconnect them and using a multi-metre (set to AC) probe a set of brown and blue wires till you get the 240v, this would be your IN. You can also switch on the light switch and you’ll tell which lines are your switch wires.

Links & References

Wiring Diagram For a One Way Lighting Circuit Using the 3 Plate Method – Connections Explained – YouTube

Electrical Wiring Colours – A Complete Guide | RS

Windscreen Repair DIY Tool

I had a small windscreen crack and a really small chip that looked like it could easily be filled with a DIY windscreen repair kit. After purchasing a cheap plastic version that seemed to do the trick, I did regret not paying twice as much and simply buying a metal version, so I thought of posting this and letting others know.

Why? Because plastic can only take so much, compared to metal threads. If you are not willing to go with the Aluminium Kit, then I recommend the budget needle version (linked at the very bottom).


Aluminium Kit

Alternative Kits



Like me, maybe you wanted to just give it a go, see yourself never using something like this again. Well I recommend something like this

Other Related Tools/Kits

You may need a drill to access some spots that the resin cannot get into. A simple heat source can also help, before resorting to a drill, as shown in this video. Also you may want to use a polishing kit simply to polish out very thin scratches. Link below.

Reviving a lead–acid battery

Like me, you may have a Lead-acid battery that’s lost its charge. You don’t have to throw it away, there is still hope!

In my case the battery was left in storage, without charge for some periods of time. My assumption was that it had also lost some of its water. In some cases you can revive it by charging it up at a slightly higher voltage, but if it is lacking sulfuric acid or water (De-ionised), charging it dry may just do further damage.

Buy some De-ionised water at your local tescos or such, buying online sometimes prices are inflated but they’re usally £2 for 2.5L (don’t pay more), then buy a decent charger (SKYRC iMAX B6 V2 60W 6A DC 2.5mm/XT60 Dual Input Battery Balance Charger Discharger – best price I could find, while confirming being genuine).

I recommend the charger above, because it’s going to be the same price as a decent car battery charger, but that can do a lot more. You’ll need to arrange a 14v 3-5a power supply.

Watch some of the videos below which begin by opening the battery ports, reloading the water and then using an advanced charger, charging it up.

revive lead acid battery – YouTube

How to Revive a dead 12V Sealed Lead Acid Battery – YouTube

how to check amp on car battery – YouTube

How to Use a Multimeter for Beginners – How to Measure Voltage, Resistance, Continuity and Amps – YouTube

How to Test a Car Battery With a Multimeter ( Voltage + Cold Cranking Amps) – YouTube

Basic to Advanced Battery Information from Battery University

Sulphuric Acid 1N From APC Pure | Volumetric Solutions | APC Pure

12V 15 Amp Lead Acid LED Digital Battery and Alternator Tester | eBay

Battery Hydrometer Car Motorbike Van Tester Lead Acid Electrolyte Level Density 5055058174895 | eBay

1x Laser Tools Battery Tester Work Mechanic | eBay

Cut Optimizers

If you have ever worked on anything that requires more than the basic amount of cut management, and you want to ensure you do not waste material while also saving on costs then you might want to use cut optimizers.

Essentially they do the math for you. You insert the lengths or sheets available in stock and also input the required pieces you need. You add the minor details like the size of your saw (so it also calculates the loss between the cuts) and then it provides you with the most optimal lengths/dimensions of sheets to purchase. Instead of buying 2 sheets, you may be able to fit it in 1, for example.

After looking around I found a few apps/programs that does this and of course I’ll share them here, but let me first state that this post is a work in progress as I am still not fully satisfied with regards to what I have found and used.

This is mostly due to my lack of experience (basically not enough tries yet) and a bit of knowledge in the area (what is the correct way of doing these things). So you’ll have to bare with me or feel free to correct me.

Cutter – Cutting Optimizer

In no specific order, the first one is this. I really like this one in terms of the UI, it’s newbie friendly, but it seems like there’s only one configuration and the results were quite simplistic and noticed unnecessary waste, no different to the calculations I did off the top of my head. I even decided I could do better in terms of wastage and less cuts and I actually did. Weird.

CutList Optimizer

Looks a lot more sophisticated than the above application, however this is a little more ideal for sheets rather than timber lengths. There’s a great visual result, but it’s not good for timber lengths. Still can use it on lengths though. Takes a little to process the result for you.

Another issue I find is that I would simply like to know how many pieces I need to buy, how many cuts and where I would need to cut after. Really long winded way so far.

Sheet Cutting

This one looks a lot more basic compared to the other two. It seems focused only on sheets. It assumes you have one sheet and want to produce your pieces from that one sheet.

The visual results are good, you can go full screen and rotate, but can’t seem to zoom in.

This is ideal if your project is based on one panel/sheet and you want save as much off the board/sheet/panel as possible. In my opinion this is simply just a helping had, rather than heavy calculations that you normally can’t do right away.

Cut Master

This one seems to be the most clear and all round tool. Sheets and also linear materials. Some of the others once you close the app you have to save/export it or it disappears. This one you can even create projects.

Clear with each tab, pieces, stock and results. If I had to recommend based on UI, it would be this.


They’re all so slightly different and have their benefits that I can’t decide which one is best, but if I had to choose right now, it would be Cut Master. There are more apps out there that do this job, I’ll be continuing to try them all. I’ve yet to decide which one actually does the best optimizations. My only thought here is it sucks that businesses don’t simply stock the longest size, you order to your specifications and you either pick up or they send out what you need, no wastage.